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What to do if your
washing machine starts to act up? You can either call the service company and
wait a few days for an expensive repair job, or, if you are handy with tools,
you can use our Washing Machine Repair Guide to fix the machine yourself.
This repair guide is
offered for informational purposes only. We can give you ideas about how to fix
your washing machine, but because of the differences from manufacturer to
manufacturer we cannot guarantee your problem will be covered here.
Still, this guide is
educational and will give you a better understanding of how your washing
machine works. And with that understanding you are better equipped to attempt
your own repairs, or to talk intelligently with the service company if someone
comes to fix your washing machine.
ATTENTION: Washing
machines use electricity and water! This can be a deadly combination, so be
sure to read our safety guide before attempting any of your own repairs.
Problem #1 - Leaks
Washing machine
leaks can be either internal or external. External leaks are commonly
caused by loose hose connections, so that is the first thing you should look
for when you washing machine appears to be leaking.
Another external
problem is a backed-up drain which is forcing water backwards to the washing
machine.
Internal Leaks
are more difficult to repair and involve removing the external panels of the
washing machine. Disconnect the power connection before doing this.
Start with a visual
inspection for obvious signs of water leaking or collecting. If there is
nothing obvious, touch the various components (with the electricity off!)
feeling for dampness.
The most common
sources of leaks are the pump, the water injector, or the tub. If you can't
feel or see any leaks you should try to run a short cycle with the panels off
to locate the source. Remember, this has to be strictly visual. No hands or any
other objects must touch the inside of the washing machine while it is running.
Another source of
leaks that will be revealed with this visual inspection is a water sloshing
problem, where the water escapes over the side of the tub and falls onto the
floor. If this is the case you need to replace the gasket around the top of the
tub.
Problem #2 - Spinner
doesn't work or is slow
The spin cycle will
stop when the washing machine lid is opened, so if your washer does not spin at
all then the first thing you should check is the switch that is operated by the
lid. When you close the lid is the switch closed? There may be a tab to activate
the switch or it may be activated by the hinge motion of the lid.
Access the switch by
taking off the top panel of the washing machine. You will be able to see the
type of mechanism and whether or not it is being switched by the action of the
lid. If the mechanical action seems correct, use a voltage meter to see if it actually
functions. If not, replace it.
Other possible
causes include worn belts. These are usually found on older machines, as the
new machines usually use a direct drive mechanism for the spin function. If
yours is a fairly new machine, you may be looking at the direct drive coupler.
If none of these is the source of the problem the spin cycle solenoid or timer
may need to be replaced.
Problem #3 - No
agitation but spins OK
If the washing
machine fills with water but does not agitate the first thing to check is the
drive mechanism on the agitator. Depending on the brand of washing machine you
may be looking for a worn drive belt or dog cam set. If the agitator wobbles
when it is turned by hand the dog cam set needs to be replace.
Other possible
mechanical causes behind agitator failure include worn transmission mode levers
or an obstructed or disconnected air tube which connects to the pressure
switch.
Electrical problems
such caused by bad contacts are also possible. Test the pressure switches and timer
contacts. Certain machines will switch off when the lid is lifted, so you can
also check the lid switch if you have this type of machine.
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